At the same time, I'm coming up with a schematic to run wiring to those locations. I have several clusters of valves around the property, so my plan is to move them closer to each other and install automatics as I work on each zone. I definitely am going to replace those manual valves with solenoid automatic valves as I work on each zone. I have huge beds that are watered by extremely wasteful shrub sprays, and it takes a huge toll on my water bill during the summer months. I definitely have zones I am going to merge, but likely will not eliminate zones as I am adding drip irrigation zones. ![]() 4 as opposed to the Rain Bird R-VAN at a rate of. So do you believe that with clay soil I would be better off going with the MP Rotators at a rate of. I have the laterals in place for the center heads, just need to get better coverage around the and thanks for your input. To do it, I would have to run new laterals around the exterior of my lawn zones. I am strongly considering rotary nozzles. But, I have a pretty needy lawn that still requires weekly watering. It rains often where I live and we have a huge water source. I will keep the mainline as is, which I believe is actually looped around the house (still in the process of confirming that), but I will likely end up running new laterals and re-sodding the damaged areas. I am going to have to re-run lines and redo much of the system. My system is on its own city meter so I have high pressure and do not have issues with running different style heads, even though I know it causes uneven watering. In those areas, I added roto sprayers just to get a little better coverage in the interim while I rehabbed the lawn. ![]() There were huge gaps in coverage (not even waterline to waterline) in some areas. The Hunter MP Rotator nozzles put out 0.4 inches per hour.Ĭlick to expand.All of my heads were spray when i bought the house. The typical fan spray nozzle puts 1.6 inches of water per hour. Mixing the non moving fan spray nozzles with any kind of rotary or rotor type head is also troublesome. Set a system to apply an inch of water per week in one or two on cycles, defects show up as dried out areas in between flooded areas. If someone is setting their irrigation to overwater, coverage problems are not often visible. This becomes a thing and a problem when a lawn is not set to be grossly overwatered. ![]() When installing the orifices in a Rotor one had better be referring to the manufacturer's tech sheet concerning the GPM and radius of each size of orifice. The screw in front of the Rotor orifice shortens the radius while causing that individual head to put down way more water in the area covered by that head vs other heads in that zone. Unless someone is watering a bowling green or football field sized and shaped lawn, I prefer rotary nozzles because they adjust to differing radiuses and arcs. Those issues show up when a lawn is on a restricted watering time and schedule. Deviation from that often leads to problems with uniformity of coverage. ![]() Every head in a zone had better be nozzled for the same radius. They are for covering radiuses of 35-50 ft and under the conditions of a very uniform square or triangular pattern placement. How far apart are your existing Rotor heads? I frequently see Rotor heads misused.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |